When I smelled this when it was released in 2007 it felt like a more sophisticated version of my old staple Calvin Klein Obsession for Men. Pierre Bourdon showed that he was more than the perfumer who created Cool Water when he made French Lover (aka Bois D’Orage). A few other white flowers join in to create the other great tuberose fragrance. He adds coconut to provide an oily sweet contrast. He uses eucalyptus to accentuate the mentholated quality a the heart of the flower. Ropion chooses an eclectic company of complementary and contrasting notes for the tuberose. I was well married by the time I found this but it is one of the few fragrances I wear which generates unsolicited compliments, so maybe its reputation is deserved.įor so many years the baseline tuberose perfume was Robert Piguet’s Fracas and nothing came close until Dominique Ropion’s Carnal Flower. Starting with a flare of tangerine and lavender which are spiced up wiith clove and cinnamon we reach the base notes which form the ambery musky accord. That has died down over time and now what remains is a fantastic ambery musk by one of the great perfumers working.
Musc Ravageur by Maurice Roucel has a bit of a rakish reputation as a lady-killer if you believe the stories told on the perfume forums. If you want lily in your fragrance here is one of the best. He adds orange blossom, angelica, and musk as the perfect complements to the uber-lily. Flechier weaves three sources of lily raw materials to render a larger-than-life composite as the core of this fragrance. Lys Mediterranee by Edouard Flechier is one of the most luminous perfumes I own. This fragrance re-invigorated my interest in citrus fragrances all by itself. It finishes with a golden hay note over cedar. The heart is rose, cardamom, and a bit of textural pepper to coax the spiciness from the rose. There is fantastic bitter orange (bigarade) surrounded by the most gentle aldehydes. There are a plethora of citrus colognes but Jean-Claude Ellena’s Bigarade Concentree is one that stands way above the fray. This is one of the best places for anyone interested in niche perfume to start and here are the five I would suggest you begin with. A particular style might not be to your taste but the quality and creativity is always prominently displayed. There is not a mediocre one in the whole group. Over the last fourteen years and 21 total releases I can say that this is one of the strongest collections of fragrances on the market. It really was the beginning of my starting to take a stronger interest in the people behind the perfume. These were the first perfumes to feature the name of the perfumer on the bottle. When I think of when niche perfumery really managed to breakthrough I go back to 2000 when Frederic Malle released the first nine perfumes in his Editions de Parfums brand. When I speak with Michael Edwards on the beginning of niche perfumery he can accurately names L’Artisan Parfumeur in 1978 and Annick Goutal in 1980 as the first niche lines.
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